Oops, the Cummins Won't Shut Off!

We all dread the moment when the diesel won't start.  Recently John Dann, Cielito #51, had the opposite experience; he turned his ignition switch off and his Cummins just kept purring.

The Lucas CAV's fuel shutoff solenoid

Interestingly, John reports there are no problems starting or shutting down the engine when it's cold.  Only if the engine is allowed to warm up does the problem occur.  So, what could cause this?  A logical explanation is that heat is causing the Lucas CAV injector pump's fuel cutoff solenoid to stick open.  The solenoid is critical to the engine's operation and so it's worth knowing something about it.  

The Lucas CAV's fuel shutoff solenoid clicks when the 
ignition switch is turned on

The fuel cutoff solenoid is nothing but an electrically operated valve.  Supply it with 12V and the valve opens.  Take away the voltage and it closes.  Aboard our tugs 12V is applied to the solenoid whenever the ignition switch is turned on.  Likewise, turn the ignition switch off and the solenoid closes.  A closed solenoid will stop the engine dead.  This is exactly what happened on Nellie D. #63 while cruising the ICW just north of Ft. Pierce, FL.  One moment the engine was running, the next it wasn't.  The single wire that supplies 12V to the fuel cutoff solenoid had vibrated off.  The result from the wire coming off is is akin to turning the ignition switch off: dead silence! 

The manual shutoff is the smaller lever on top, to the left
of  the larger throttle lever is

So, how do you shut down a Cummins when the ignition switch doesn't work?  It's simple.  Rotate the Lucas CAV's manual shutdown lever.  It's the small, spring loaded lever located on top of the fuel injector pump and just forward of the throttle lever.   

(All Diagrams are from the Cummins B Series Service Manual)

Brown Snow--Or, Teak Dust Everywhere

Sanded deck on John William #68

By John Mackie, John William #68
From June 2014 emails

We had brown snow--oh wait, that's teak dust. I sanded the side decks with 80 grit before I started to rake (clean out) the seams.  The front deck and back deck were sanded without a lot of bungs to replace.  To get the old caulk out I am using a Fein tool with their special teak-deck caulk removal bit. It works well but the grooves still need additional attention.  I bought a sanding block from Jamestown Distributors with an adjustable depth.  It uses sticky-back 36 grit paper and does an outstanding job on straight seams.  To handle curves and odd groove widths I made some blocks which use 80 grit sticky-back paper.  I also made rakes from screwdrivers and always have a supply of razor blades on hand.

I use Boatlife Teak Deck Sealant ($20.39 for a 10.5oz tube at Jamestown Dsitributors) as I've had good success with it over the years.  I used 2 1/2 tubes on the front deck. This did from the point of the deck fwd of the winch to the first port lite on the trunk. On part of the deck I didn't tape the seams but merely applied the sealant and troweled it in.  After it had dried I used a random orbital with 80 grit, dropping to 36 grit where necessary, to remove all the excess caulk.  Most manufactures say not to sand across the seams and to use a belt sander if sanding is necessary as don't want the caulk to pull away from the sides.  Although I used a random orbital sander I didn't see any evidence of 'pull away'.  Besides, since an LNVT's teak decks aren't designed to keep water out of the boat, it doesn't really matter.  On other parts of the deck I taped each side of the seam before applying the sealant.  This takes twice as long although it's not as messy.  That is until you pull the tape and the wind starts blowing.  The tape needs to come off before the sealant skins.  Having done it both ways I do recommend tapping the seams but that can depend on the condition of the deck. Mine was extremely worn and I found that it needed extra attention after it was caulked.

The deck now looks great and it should be good for another 20 years.  

WhimSea Plays Backdrop for the Band (Tuggers Vol. 60)

WhimSea #64 as band backdrop

By Barb Robertson, WhimSea #64

barbandstowe@yahoo.com

WhimSea was the hit of the Memorial Day party at Brands Marina in Port Clinton, Ohio. Thanks to a winter project that required hundreds of hours of sanding and the adage of "just one more coat of varnish" WhimSea found herself as the backdrop of the Memorial Day Barbeque. This event was attended buy several hundred people and it looked like everyone needed a selfie with WhimSea's salty profile. Not sure that WhimSea is ready for a world tour with the band but she sure made for an interesting party favor.

Just In: Knock Off #66 Cruises the Chesapeake Bay to St Mary's (Tuggers Vol. 60)

John Niccolls and Knock Off #66

By John Niccolls
Knock Off #66

johnniccolls@comcast.net

With a friend, Dave Martin, and my nephew, John Stuart, I spent Wednesday night through Sunday afternoon on Knock Off.  We did some damage to a fifth of Scotch Wednesday night but still managed to get out of Herrington Harbor South and on the Bay by eight o'clock Thursday.  We anchored in Smith Creek just around the corner from the Potomac's Point Lookout.  The seas were kind to us on the way down and the 53 NM were all pleasant. 

Friday we proceeded up the Potomac and docked next to Bob Allnutt's Victory #2 on St Inigoes Creek.  We invited Bob to lunch and he was happy to show us around the boat and his new home addition.  We left after lunch and found another creek off the St. Marys with a few small nettles, clear (well, pretty clear) water and few signs of human development visible. 

Later we stopped at St. Mary's College, walked the city then anchored around the corner in very nice water with no nettles.  After dinner we used the dinghy to inspect the anchored fleet off the college docks.  A very nice Sabre presented itself as potentially being my next boat—ha ha. 

Saturday we went down the Potomac, turned north, and then enjoyed a bouncy ride up the Bay to Solomon's Island.  For the night we stopped at Zahnizers and mooring ball H.  Sunday was a smooth day on the bay and an easy ride home.

Knock Off performed perfectly and we were humming along at 6.7 to 7.3 at 1500 rpm depending on the wind and tide. 

Editor's note: The above came from a lightly edited email from John Niccolls, Knock Off #66.  Nettles, aka stinging nettles are nasty little jellyfish found in the Chesapeake Bay's brackish warm waters.  Their stings don't hurt as much as a bees but they do hurt.

In the Details: How Windows Were Placed During Fiberglass Layup

It's interesting how much window placement changed during the LNVT's production run.  In the saloon for example, the most forward window moved 5" aft (see Saloon Window Spacings Differ--A Lot).  In the pilothouse the windows not only moved they changed in size.  How was this variation handled when there were only one set of molds?  Positioning the windows was accomplished at the time the fiberglass was laid-up.  A board the size of the desired opening was screwed directly to the mold.  The board and its edges were covered in release agent.  The gel coat and fiberglass were sprayed/laid right up to the board, but not over it.  After the fiberglass had dried, but before the layup was popped out of the mold, the window boards were removed.  Using this technique the yard was able to accommodate any size window and any desired placement.

Thanks go to Tommy Chen who explained this to me via Skype on 23 June 2014.

History: Who Owns Lord Nelson Ltd. Today?

According to Lani Hart, Lord Nelson Ltd. was sold to Lane Finley at the end of 1988.  According to Tommy Chen, he bought Lord Nelson Ltd. in 1989 from Lane for $20,000.  Tommy still owns the company.

This just in from Mary Ann McChain, Thistle #47

The Following was excerpted from FaceBook

Jonathan Davis and son Eli

Audrey Davis and son Eli

These pictures are of our new pastor and his family aboard Thistle on the Rappahannock River. They are from Texas and are land lovers so they were thrilled to be aboard Thistle for a little cruise.  The pastor Jonathan Davis and wife Audrey brought their two year old son, Eli aboard.  Eli was just so excited he did not know what to do!  

Finger Tip Welding (Tuggers Vol. 60)

By Craig Kurath, Annie #38

ckurath@outlook.com

While fabricating a platform for Annie's new refrigeration compressor, I replaced some ½" stainless steel nuts and bolts with new ones, since the old ones were a coarse thread pitch 12 rather than 13. That is just asking for trouble when there are two thread pitches in a boat! I inserted the two new bolts in place and with my fingers spun the nuts on so I would not lose them when I returned in the morning. Fasteners tend to walk away when I turn my back. When I returned to my task, the nuts would not come off, even with a box wrench and 3/8" ratchet. My shipwright on retainer told me the stainless steel had galled. Who has ever heard of metal fasteners galling? Who has ever heard of galling? Sure enough, my fastener vendor confirmed that stainless steel fasteners gall. I went home and returned with my 1/2" Craftsman© ratchet. I knew the larger ratchet would remove the nut from the bolt. Well, it didn't, but two hands on the ratchet and a box wrench braced on a stringer allowed me to twist the bolt off! The next option would have been an angle grinder with a cutoff disk or a reciprocating saw. I think a little anti-seize will be in order from now on.

Evidence that LNVT 37' Hull#61 was Never Built?

The following table was included in Lani Hart's Lord Nelson History letter written in 2010.  In the column marked '37' Tug' there's no hull#61.  From this we can infer that hull#61 wasn't built.  
So, how could a hull number be skipped?  The first thing to know is that the yard didn't assign hull numbers.  They were assigned by Lord Nelson Ltd. on a customer's Purchase Order (see Rose Bud #34 P.O.).   It's probable that a PO was written for hull #61.  But, for whatever reason, the purchase never went through.  

(Editor's note: Adding up the 1986 37' Tug production yields 18, not 17 as shown above.  Adding up the 1987 37' Tug production yields 15 tugs, not 16 as shown above.  The table includes a hull#77--which we have no record of.  This may be a simple error.  Lane Finley bought Lord Nelson in late 1988 so Lani's production count for 1989 could be erroneous. )

Another Difference: Smith Access Latch Location

Smith Access latches of Sally W. #42

The first tugs with a Smith Access, like Sally W. #42, had their barrel bolts on the engine room side.  In later hulls the barrel bolts were move to the stateroom side.

Welcome Aboard Amos Bechtel

Amos Bechtel, Pendleton, OR, is looking for a new adventure and a solid new boat.  Something he can live aboard as he transitions from working to a cruising life.   To that end he'll be "getting rid of a lot of accumulated stuff" including his business.

OEM vs. Aftermarket--It Can be Hard to Tell the Difference

It's often hard to tell if a certain feature, like the Smith Access, is original or aftermarket.   The Smith Access on Tess II has enough in common with a yard built Access to make you look twice.  Certainly the joinery techniques are those OEY would have used.    Look closely though and there are some tells in the finish and function.  The color of the wood in the panel's trim pieces and the bulkhead's jam are darker than the surrounding wood.  The latches are not like anything on any other tug.  The bulkhead jam pieces are held in with stainless screws about 3" o.c. but OEY glued the jams in.

Aftermarket Smith Access on Tess II #22

The biggest tell though is the two copper water pipes crossing the opening.  OEY routed the water pipes above the Access.

The open Access

Loren Hart at 1985's Annapolis Sailboat Show

Photo by David Lyman

By Sally Seymour, Sally W. #42
sallyvt@me.com

This photo of Loren Hart was taken by David Lyman at the Annapolis Boat Show in September 1985.  David owned Afaran, a 1985 Lord Nelson 41' #46.  David sailed between Maine and the Virgin Islands several times before Afaran was lost in the hurricane which hit St. John in 1994.  There was nothing left of the boat - no evidence.

Tess II #22's 2014 Launching

Some shots of Tess II #22 as she's being launched in Skagway. Alaska, June 2104

Time to spalsh Tess II #22

Tess II #22 at the dock in Skagway, AK 

Just in from Thomas Bauer, Semper Fidelis #59

Semper Fidelis #59 cruising the Tenakee Inlet.

Origins of Lord Nelson 35 Sloop

The following are posts found on The Cruiser's Forum.  

Senormechanico: Here's a line drawing of a Lord Nelson 35 (Lord Nelson 35 Review : Bluewaterboats.org).  It has all the same underwater features you're describing, but a much better rudder than the Union 36. as well.  There are other design niceties like decent tank access and removal without cutting up the floor.  We loved ours while offshore cruising.

Senormechanico: Ours was Grey Max, hull number 6. I was told by the broker where we purchased the boat that the designers had been HC dealers. (Loren Hart was actually a principle in HC and Tommy Chen's yard was building the HC 38 MKII .) They wanted to improve a few things with the HC 33 and got the HC guys upset. Their dealership got yanked, so they decided to build their own. Tommy Chen was the builder. They stretched the design a little here and there, flattening the aft sections to reduce the tendency to hobby horse and giving a little more interior room. All tanks could be removed if necessary for repair, replacement or access to hull. The cabin sole panels came up, the table unbolted with four bolts and you could lift both water tanks out after removing a couple of hold down ss crossbeams. The access hatches were about ten inches in diameter. The diesel tank was under the aft berth and was also removable through the companionway door. The engine/trans assembly was also removable through the companionway door without any drama or cutting. The rudder (airfoil section, not barn door) is designed to be neutrally buoyant so it doesn't add helm while heeling, and is protected with a skeg. See line drawing in previous post link. The upper end of the rudder shaft has a flange with 6 bolts safety wired to hold it to the upper shaft and quadrant (standard cable steering to a wheel) for easy removal if necessary on the hardor in the water. When the production stopped, Tommy Chen destroyed the molds rather than selling them to someone who would make a cheaper version. This was done to preserve the quality image of the originals.  (I asked Tommy Chen if he destroyed the 35's molds.  He said, "No."  Age and use did them in.) There are many other refinements we came to appreciate during the years we cruised with it.

Just In From Ed McChain, Thistle #47

Ed just dove on his prop and bottom and found them to be very clean.  Here is how he used anhydrous lanolin to protect the prop--and some other thoughts.

Apply the lanolin with a brush then heat the prop with a paint gun just befor launch warm up a little and paint it on again , don't heat again with the paint gun.  Its very sticky , you won't like it if you get it on yourself.  As for the bottom paint, petit SR-60, 3 gal.  I didn't do it right with the rudder, I shined it all up and then just painted it, SS reacted with the copper in the bottom paint and I have an oster/barnical garden. Next time I will clean and paint with an epoxy paint, then bottom paint or paint with cold zinc spray paint,  Some say the zinc is very effective on all metal parts in stead of bottom paint.

Just in from Lee Anderson, Jack Robert #17

After making the 1,000 mile journey to his home port, Lee writes about being aboard Jack Robert....

When I'm there I don't want to go home (about 90 minutes away).  When I am home all I can think about is getting back to her.  Dee is feeling the same way.  She really bonded during that one day trip from Trempealeau to our home port when she came aboard after we dropped Joe off at his boat.  I don't know how we are going to take it when she goes into winter storage.  I'm currently in Rhinelander, WI for business but plan to stop at the boat on the way home to check on things and may stay the night to get my "fix".

Smith Access Construction Details on Nellie D. #63

The Smith Access is a removable panel in the companionway between the pilothouse and stateroom.  The panel is part of the bulkhead separating the engine room from the head/shower areas.   It is named for Craig and Rosemary Smith, Rose Bud #34, who were the first to request this modification.  It subsequently became an OEM standard on many subsequent tugs.  Removing the panel makes it really easy to access the front of the engine.  

Open access in the companionway

The access panel is 19-1/4"w x 21"h.  It is held in place with two 2-9/16" long barrel bolts.  The access is made of a 7/16", 5-ply marine plywood.  It is faced with teak paneling--each of the panels are 2"w x 3/16"thick.  The access is framed on three sides (port, starboard, and bottom) with teak strips. A step (15/16" thick x 22-1/2w x 6-1/2"deep), supported by two gussets, is attached to the access panel.

Closed access in the companionway

Since Nellie's access was built using techniques found elsewhere aboard, it leads me to believe that her Access is OEM.  However, I cannot be certain without comparing Nellie's to a known original.  Therefore need to get the Access details  from one of these tugs:  Perseverance #32; Rose Bud #3; Kedge #43; Monkey #52; Tug E. Bear #62; Georgia J. #65; or Tortuga #69.  Then, once we know what an original looks like it will also be easier to determine the provenance of other tugs' Accesses.

Nellie's access panel

Construction Techniques Used on Nellie's Smith Access

Joint detail between removable step and the side of the companionway

1.  There are pencil lines on the panel's backside.  The lines traverse the panel's perimeter, and while varying, average about 3/8" in from the panel's edge.  I believe these lines are a transfer from the bulkhead and were used by the carpenter to cut the access panel to size.

2.  The access panel's three trim pieces are (1) glued on, and (2) vary from 1/8 to 5/16" thick.

3.  A miter joint was used to connect the bottom trim piece to the port and starboard pieces.

Pencil lines and miter joint 

4.  The tops of the port and starboard trim pieces are tapered, presumably to keep the panel from sticking because of  humidity changes.  This same joint can be found in the access panels under the settee.  There is no trim piece along the top of the panel.

Tapered tops of side trim pieces

5.  Seeing as neither the back of the access nor the back of the step is varnished, it's possible the Smith Access was varnished in place and at the same time as the companionway.  The fact that the barrel bolts are covered in varnish confirms that they, at least, were in place when the Access was varnished.

Unfinished back of step.

6.  Two 2-9/16" barrel bolts hold the access panel into the bulkhead.

Two 2-9/16" barrel bolts hold access in place

7.  The stair's two gussets (wooden bracket supports), like the treads themselves, are teak, 15/16" thick and with a bull-nosed end.  The gussets and treads are identical in color and finish too.  Each gusset is held to the tread with two fasteners in countersunk and bunged holes.  Each gusset is held to the access panel with two stainless steel, Phillips head screws, driven in from the engine room side of the panel.

8.  The back of the tread has a 7/10 miter cut (about 35 degrees).  Since this is sharper than the companionway's 6/10 (about 50 degrees) slope, the top of the tread presses tightly against the panel while the tread's underside does not. 

The tread and supporting gusset

9.  The rough opening in the bulkhead was finished with a teak jam.  The jam's corners are mitered.

10.  A bulhead mounted, teak, butt jointed, stop, with 1/2" reveal prevents the access panel from falling through the opening.

The bulkhead's jam and stop

Just in from Sally W. #42

From a June 2014 email from Sally Seymour.  "New stove coming in and battery installation underway. Doesn't take long to make a mess. New curtains installed on the starboard side. Today I installed the rest."

Just for fun

Just in: Hjortie #33's Teak Deck Removal

Still a bit to go. The mind has been willing, the body hasn't. I'm now completely in your camp RE: bung/screw replacement. Why bother with the screws? I have found the black ploy is laid down unevenly on my deck. So strips easy to pull. Long single lengths of 12 plus feet. Others so embedded in ploy I needed a chisel to pry out. This helps explain the water under the decking. As the bungs loosen, it's a certainty.

Installing a 15 gallon Hot Water Heater (Tuggers Vol. 60)

By Lou Steplock, Pet Tug #60

WyomingCardiac@aol.com

The best thing about tripling the size of the HWH is that we didn't lose any space in the engine room.  Actually we gained space since now I can install a new shelf over the 4D battery that occupies the

New 15g water heater installed outboard of ladder

 space of the old HWH.  An added bonus is I can fit more easily into the engine room.  We used a cardboard cylinder that we could easily change the circumference to get the maximum size possible.   I lowered the shelf, gaining about 8" (just a guess). So it makes much more efficient use of the space the battery used to take up. (Pardon the hanging preposition).  I also saved the old heater so we can bring it to show and tell and maybe the silent auction.

The Rationale for Comprehensive Insurance (Tuggers Vol. 60)

Interview with Jay Sterling, Cruz-In #72

JaySterling@hotmail.com

Jay and Marty Sterling live aboard their 37' tug in the Florida Keys.  When it came time to consider renewing their comprehensive insurance, Jay set about investigating the costs and policies offered by various companies.  Jay points out that there is a small loan on their boat.  He and Marty had the option of purchasing a comprehensive policy for the entire value of the tug or insuring the boat for just the value of the loan.  They chose to insure for the boat's full value.  He discovered some insurance companies, such as Progressive, do not offer policies for live aboards.  Others, such as USAA, will not cover a boat over 20 years of age.  Another issue Jay brought up was that his marina, like many others, requires being listed as a beneficiary or loss payee on the policy.  This covers the marina for damages caused by your boat (such as: fire or pollution) and it needs to specifically outlined in the policy.  

After his due diligence, Jay chose Brown & Brown Insurance, Ft Lauderdale, Florida, for their price, coverage and most importantly (for him) because of their liberal navigation restrictions during hurricane season.  With this policy cruising is covered year round in the Bahamas, along the Eastern Seaboard to Nova Scotia, the St Laurence, the Great Lakes and the Mississippi.  From 1 June to 15 November cruising is restricted north of the Tropic of Cancer.  This suits Cruz-In's crew to a tee.  

The policy required an engine survey as well as an out of the water hull survey.  [Note: Most insurance companies require a survey for any boat over 20 years old, and then again, about every five years].  These surveys added to the overall insurance costs, but Jay felt it was money well spent.  The completed surveys required that a high water alarm plus two new 500 Racor filters be installed and that the rudder post hose be replaced before the insurance would be issued.  Jay reduced his premium costs by choosing a deductible of $3,750 for the boat and $6,250 for hurricane damage, ending up with a policy costing approximately $2,400 per year.  The policy provides $500,000 each for liability, environment and uninsured coverage; $25,000 medical policy per person; and $1,000 personal item coverage (maximum of 5 per year).    

Jay is quite happy with the policy and hopes his research, comments and experience might prove helpful to other LNVT owners. 

The Rationale For Liability-Only Insurance (Tuggers Vol. 60)

By Bob Allnutt, Victory #2
mylabsargent@yahoo.com

I recently decided to drop Victory's comprehensive insurance in lieu of a liability only policy. With the $500,000 liability policy (through Progressive) it pays me nothing should I damage my own boat but covers up to $500,000 for damages to someone else's property, $5,000 for each person and $500,000 for fuel spills.

I plan to use some of the $1,100 in annual savings to make my tug as safe as possible. I am primarily coastal cruising and I think the major reasons my tug could be severely damaged or sunk are due to: fire; flooding; or hurricane. Here's my plan to mitigate those risks.


Fire: I have five fire extinguishers on board, including a halon Fireboy (now called a Fireperson) in my engine room. All of these are routinely inspected. I always turn off the propane gas at the tank and solenoid when I am finished cooking. Additionally, I have a smoke and CO2 detector.



Flooding: My major concerns are the below-the-waterline through hull fittings, almost all of which are impossible to reach, and the bow thruster. I want to design a system that will replace four through hulls with one; very much like a sea chest. I inspect the bow thruster's tube and motor mounts on a regular basis and I am in the process of assembling a damage control kit to seal the thruster in case it leaks.

I routinely check the engine, engine room and bilges every hour or so when I am underway. I use a Last Drop shaft seal that seals a stationary unit to the spinning shaft with a graphite bearing. I check the shaft seal bearing every time I go out with a infrared thermometer to ensure it is not overheating and inspect the rear bilge.

I have one automatic bilge pump, one electric manual bilge pump, and one manual pump under the galley sink. If there was major flooding, the manual hand pump is of little help because I typically single hand my tug and suspect I would be too busy trying to stop the leak to man the pump. I test the automatic and electric pumps routinely and periodically inspect the manual pump’s bellows. Currently I do not have a high water alarm, but I am designing one with an intensive sounding device (since I am a bit hard of hearing).


Hurricanes: My tug is in a protected creek on the Chesapeake Bay where I will employ two or three anchors in the event of a major storm.

Like anyone who elects to self-insure their boat, I am taking a calculated risk that I believe will work for me. I chose Progressive Insurance because it does not require a survey and is the least expensive. Boat US also offers a liability policy, they require an in the water survey and it costs more, but they offer better coverage. If anyone has any ideas for a sea chest, damage control kit, or anything that will make a tug safer, I would welcome your inputs.

Personalizing Your Tug (Tuggers Vol.62)

Here's a great idea from Julian S. Richards, the first owner of Hull #66.  He engraved his name and the date he took possession of the tug on the hub of the helm wheel.  John Niccolls, Hull #66's current owner, is thinking about adding his name and possession date around the outside edge of the hub.

Engraving on the hub of the helm's wheel

A Dry Bilge (Tuggers Vol. 60)

By John Niccolls, Knock Off #66
j.niccolls@blakelandscapes.com

Removing all, or almost all, water from Knock Off's bilge was hampered by the inherent inability of submersible pumps to reach the deepest area of the LNVT bilge just below the shaft log. Our solution was to add a self-priming diaphram type pump and to locate the strum box (Whale 3/4" side entry from GO2Marine) under the shaft log. In less than 30 seconds of operation, the new pump discharged about a half inch of water that was in the bilge following a long and hard rain storm which occurred while we were anchored on La Trapp Creek in Maryland in June.

Flojet's run-dry bilge pump mounted under the galley 

The pump, a FloJet Quad II by Jabsco (Model 04125114), comes with an in-line strainer. Connections to the pump and strainer fit 3/4 inch hose. The strainer caught an accumulation of bilge debris during a vigorous wash down of Knock Off's bilge.

The pump was mounted on a bridge located above the shaft just aft of the transmission. The six inch wide bridge, made of half-inch Starboard, is about 15 inches port to starboard and has legs about eight inches tall. It's secured to the boat's floorboard support system.

The Jabsco pump--less than $150--is available at serveral on-line marine outlets. About 15 feet of 3/4 inch bilge pump hose was required. The pump discharges to a tee in the galley sink drain system. An anti-siphon loop was run up to the underside of the galley countertop.

The pump's electrical requirement, 10 amps at 12 VDC, is supplied via 12 gauge marine wire. About 30 feet was needed to run from the house battery bank to the instrument console and back to the pump. The ground lead run is less than six feet so 14 gauge wire was used. The system is controlled by a Blue Sea marine breaker equipped with an indicator light which glows when the switch is closed.

Engine Room Ventilation

Without mechanical ventilation the engine room averages about 30°F hotter than ambient. To help reduce the temperature John Niccolls, Knock Off #66, copying an idea he saw aboard Tosh Chontosh's Petit Wazu #20, built an engine room blower.  He used a 4" West Marine axial-flow fan and some dryer hose. The fan is mounted high in the engine room, where the hottest air is, and sucks air out via the engine room vent's water catchment box.  The fan is turned on and off with the same pilothouse breaker that controls the bilge blower.  Axial-flow fans move a lot of air but the downside is they're noisy.

Knock Off's Engine Room Blower

In the Details: The Rolled Stainless Lip

The pictured stanchion base (Hull #66) has a rolled lip at the top.  The lip is a nice finishing touch and is normally used in conjunction with non-permanent connections.  In this case the stanchion can be removed from the base. The rolled lip can also be found on the engine room ladder, where it attaches to the pintels, and on the shoe's rudder shaft receiver.  

Rolled lip on stanchion base

The removable center stanchion, which makes it easier to get the dinghy on and off, was incorporated around 1985. It's interesting the yard chose to use the lip on the permanently installed stanchions too.   Pictured below (also from Hull #66)  is a base which has been welded to the stanchion.  Perhaps the advantage of using a standard stanchion base exceeded the cost of the welding.  Also, the larger the stanchion's base, the stronger the stanchion.

A lip welded to the mating piece

Here are two pictures where the rolled lip was used on the shoe's rudder shaft receiver.

The rolled lip on the shoe's rudder shaft receiver

The rudder shaft supported by the show

Tommy Chen told me the lips were formed at his yard.  There was no machine, it was all manually done.  While Tommy couldn't remember the exact details he suspects there was a die and a lot of pounding involved.  He said he did try to farm-out the work but even three years of boat production didn't produce enough quantity to interest any machine shops. 

Thanks go to John Niccolls, Knock Off #66, and Tommy Chen who helped me understand how the lips were formed.  

Welcome Aboard Charlie Gladwell

Charlie Gladwell keeps his 1978, 34' Double Cabin Marine Trader on a 33,000 acre lake in East Tennessee. He describes her as a rescue, restoration, and learning project.  Charlie joined the Association because he thinks LNVTs are "... unique and certainly beautiful."  He's never been on an LNVT, something we need to rectify soon!