As appeared in Soundings Online October 2018. By Peter Reich, Teddy Bear 37VT15.
Tuesday, September 11, 2018
Bob Ewing and Jeanne Koenig (Salty Paws) and Alice and Andy Mutch (Loon 37VT57)
Jeanne Koenig, Salty Paws 37VT66, shared this picture and says, "Two Maine tugs 2nm apart [and members of the Down East Yacht Club] finally meet after 3 years."
Friday, August 3, 2018
Wednesday, August 1, 2018
I've been wondering why there's a cutless bearing, or what at first glance appears to be a cutless bearing, in the rudder post. Perhaps the yard's purpose wasn't additional support, but rather to aid in the installation of the rudder post tube. Specifically, they wanted to keep the post centered, within the post tube, while the post tube was being fiberglassed into the hull. Here's a picture of an installed post tube. It's 7" long (1" of that protrudes outside the hull), with a 2" ID and 2-1/2" OD).
The Fiberglass Post Tube Penetrates the Hull and is Fiberglassed Into it. A 7-1/2" x 2-1/2" Hose (Not Shown) Connects the Post Tube to the Packing Gland. The Metal Retainer, Seen above the Post Tube, Keeps the Lower Part of the Packing Gland From Moving When the Upper Part of the Gland is being Tightened.
I imagine the yard installed the rudder posts something like this. Drill a hole in the shoe and install the gudgeon.
The Shoe's Gudgeon (or Lower Rudder Post Bearing)
Next, mount the rudder post's upper bearing in the lazarette.
The Upper Rudder Post Bearing
Next, drill a 2" hole through the hull on a line between the upper and lower bearings.
Next, slide a 1-3/4" rudder post through the upper bearing and then through the hole in the hull. Before seating the post into the gudgeon, slide the post tube onto the post. Push the post tube against the hull and draw a line on the hull at the intersection of the post tube and hull.
Remove the rudder post and cut along the line on the hull. Now, finally, install the rudder post and post tube again. Slide all but 1" of the rudder tube into the hull and fiberglass it into to the hull. And there you have it, a perfectly aligned rudder post and rudder post tube.
A Piece of Rubber Emerging from the Rudder Tube
In conclusion: The rubber that we've seen coming out of the post tube for years isn't part of a cutless bearing. The rubber was there to make sure that there was a tight fit between the rudder post and the rudder tube during construction. Once the fiberglass had set the rubber was superfluous.
Dave Howell, Nellie D. 37VT63
Saturday, July 21, 2018
Thursday, July 12, 2018
A mini rendezvous on the Erie Canal at the Schenectady Yacht Club, NY with Carla B 37VT05 and Nellie D. 37VT63
I have so much enjoyed the blog and seeing what other folks do to improve their tugs, so I thought I would take a little time to tell you what I have been messing with on Thistle 37VT47.
A couple years ago I decided that the engine room lacked enough ventilation for proper cooling and air for the engine. I installed an inline 3" blower. It was kind of noisy with a high pitch whine. But, it seemed to help, maybe 10 degrees or so, but this is hard to measure.
I also didn't like the fumes from my Cummins 4BT3.9-M 150HP crankcase just floating around in the engine room making everything a little oily. The cure for that was a 3 or 4 hundred dollar breather cap device.
My inverter/charger was starting to complain about the temperature. Its manufacturer wants it in an area with lots of ventilation and a maximum temperature of 104 degrees. That must be a misprint or else they are not made to be used in Virginia.
Seems we are getting a little older or maybe just spoiled but I ran the 8KW generator a lot this summer so we could have air conditioning. Wow, does it get toasty in the engine room with everything running. There was really no other place to install the inverter/charger and so here is my solution to the problem.
They were promoting a blower for engine rooms at the boat show (Sea Flow SFBB1-130-01) that was super quiet, with a 4 yr. warranty and made for continuous operation. I installed one on the port side blowing out and one on the starboard side blowing in. Based on engine room size and the blowers rated output, theoretically they change the air once per minute. I aimed the discharge from the blowing in air blower straight at the inverter/charger to help with the high temperature issue.
A close look at the blower sending the warm air out will show a ¾ inch plastic tube that is an extension of the crankcase breather tube. This is placed near the intake of the air out blower. I find a little oily residue on the outside of the boat at the 3" round vent, so we know it's working. The in and out vents are new and none of the original vents are changed in anyway.
Ed McChain, Thistle 37VT